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Re: Race Hydration
On Jan 13, 8:06 pm, ro...@invalid.net wrote:
> What'd you use for insulation? Another issue is bottles. The Polar
> bottles are much better insulated, but the 20oz is near impossible to
> grab from the Salomon pack because it's too short, and the 24oz is
> sometimes not easy because of the wide diameter. I prefer the thinner
> 28oz bike type, but it gets cold faster. Hot water and turning it
> upside down buys time.
>
> Camilo wrote:
> > On Jan 13, 2:30 pm, ro...@invalid.net wrote:
> > > Don't know if they've changed, but the Ultimate Direction packs had the
> > > bottle vertical. Try a diagonally-slanted one such as the Salomon.
>
> > Totally agree. The vertical holders are worthless for skiing in my
> > opinion. You have to stop, rotate the pack in order to remove it and
> > then rotate it back. I've never been able to drink on the move with
> > them. I used a Salomon angled pack for years and loved it. I
> > customized it with some insulation at the bottom. Alas, it was
> > stolen. I now have a new Fischer pack, very similar design, which I
> > like too.
>
> > I'm able to drink from an angled pack with the modern pole straps,
> > having used Swix, Excel and Toko/Yoko. (prefer Swix, but not for that
> > reason, they're just the most comfortable for me). It takes some
> > practice, but it can be done. I choose moderate/easy downhills and
> > drink a little bit (1-2 glugs), but frequently.
I put a little disk cut from a foam sleeping pad at the bottom of the
bottle holder, then sealed it up by taping on the outside with black
tape. I think it made a big difference. When it's really cold, I
put a heat pack down there, flip the bottle upside down and start with
water as hot as my tap puts it out. If it's really, really cold when
training, I wear a little looser jacket and put it over the water
bottle pack in back.
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Tom,
The practice is to answer in one email, if possible.
What is a beginner to do? Ask for advice as you are, and try to avoid
as many rushed, money and convenience-over-good fit decisions as
possible. You didn't say, but are you a beginning skater or beginning
skier? If the latter, and you're not a very experienced rollerblader or
speed skater, I'll make the same suggestion any ski school in the
country will -- start with classic technique. Skating is much harder to
learn, esp. as an adult, if you're not comfortable on skis in a variety
of terrain, don't know about basic technique ideas such as weight shift,
handling downhills, don't know how to use poles, etc.
Assuming that you are ready to learn skating, we still don't know
where you live (or which shop you want to buy from), so really can't
evaluate your response. One theoretical possiblity is expanding your
region of in-person search (calling ahead first). Another is, if you
happen to live in an area where snow will soon disappear, live with
rentals and wait until early next season (often pre-season sales).
Another is to get a week-to-walk-around-the-house deal on the boots
before having bindings mounted on the skis. In other words, if your
primary goal is to have an enjoyable experience, it's worth not rushing
for the sake of price or immediate convenience.
Skis: There is lots of skier weight variability and even
flex-characteristic differences within categories like stiff or medium,
and even within pairs of skis (due to manufacturing variability and who
knows what else). By knowing your weight, height, skiing ability,
goals, and types of terrain you'll be skiing a *good* shop can make a
close estimate of ski fit without you being present. However, it is a
bit of a crap shoot. If you are buying mail order, you won't know if
they are picking exactly for you or something "close" based on what they
have in stock -- and it is nearing the end of the season. So, you have
to be explicit about that. The surest method is in person with the skis
on a flat board, which allows the salesperson to see how the ski flexes
with you on top in different weighted/unweighted positions.
Poles: Think of poles as weight you are swinging and pushing on
repeatedly for an hour or two or more with some of the weaker muscles.
Thus, a combination of light and strong and fairly stiff is a good
choice, and for someone big like you, something like Swix's CT-3 level
is a reasonable choice (Rex and Excel are also to be considered). In
measuring length, they don't say it unless you ask, but virtually all
the tables and formulas are based on having ski boots (or similar) on.
A good place to start for is the lower lip (measured at the top of the
grip or, with Swix, maybe two-thirds up the top of the grip's curve).
If you really need to buy mail order, then have someone measure you
(shoes on) to that point and convert to cm. Alternatively, buy a stock
length like 175 and cut it yourself. Learning how to put together a
pole grip is a good thing to know.
Hope that helps,
Gene
nnn wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> > Where do you live and are there any shops within travel
> > distance?
>
> Yes, but none have boots in my size except the Salomon Carbon Pros I tried
> on.
>
> > How are they going to
> > determine proper ski fit for you (not from a table)?
>
> How is fit determined? I'm 6' 3" 220 lbs, so I assumed I needed the longest
> ski, and the Fischer SCS only comes in stiff flex in a 192cm length.
>
> > (btw, is that height in boots?)<
>
> No, it's my *height* x 2.54 x .90
>
> > Those formulas are simply a guide to start from and there are lots of
> > formulas out there<
>
> Well, what's a beginner to do?
>
> thanks, tom
>
> "Gene Goldenfeld" wrote in message
> news:42197B9C.924EF225@highstream.net...
> > Who is selling this package? I've seen lower individual sale prices on
> > the bindings. Where do you live and are there any shops within travel
> > distance? Are you looking for price or fit? The problem with mail
> > order packages is that all the pieces had better be right for you or the
> > whole thing breaks down and people get unhappy. How are they going to
> > determine proper ski fit for you (not from a table)? Start with the
> > boots, since that determines bindings. Don't skimp on poles or straps,
> > which it appears you are (I don't know about the Exel, but suspect the
> > Swix wouldn't support you well in that length); it's often better to buy
> > longer as a kit, get pole glue, and cut them down yourself (hacksaw).
> > Those formulas are simply a guide to start from and there are lots of
> > formulas out there (btw, is that height in boots?).
> >
> > Gene
> >
> >
> > nnn wrote:
> > >
> > > Here is a package deal I am thinking about:
> > >
> > > $170 Fischer SCS 192-stiff (I weigh ~220 lbs.)
> > >
> > > $150 Fischer S5000 Pilot--size 49
> > > or
> > > $200 Fisher S9000 Pilot--size 49
> > >
> > > $81 Salomon Pilot Equipe Skate Binding
> > >
> > > $70 Swix Comp CT4 Composite Poles
> > > or
> > > $80 Exel C-3 Cork F03
> > > or
> > > $99 Swix Comp CT5 Composite Poles(10% lighter than CT4)
> > >
> > > My height x 2.54 x .90 = 173cm, so should I get 175cm poles?
> > >
> > > In a size 49, I was able to try on some Salomon Carbon Pros(they always
> seem
> > > to make the top models in larger sizes to make people with big feet pay
> > > up!). They seemed fine in length, but they had a vise grip on my foot
> width
> > > wise. I'm not sure how tight they should fit. Do they stretch?
> > >
> > > Most importantly, how do Fischer Centrix boots fit relative to Salomons?
> I
> > > won't be able to try the Fischers on, so I would have to order them, and
> if
> > > they didn't fit I would have to send them back, but they are part of a
> > > package, so I might have to return the whole package. Maybe they can
> send
> > > me the boots, and if they fit, they could send the rest of the package?
> If
> > > not, I could send the boots back.
> > >
> > > thanks, tom
> > >
> > > "nnn" wrote in message
> > > news:37ssbvF5hq26qU1@individual.net...
> > > > can anyone recommend a skate ski and skate boot for a beginner?
> > > >
> > > > thank you, tom
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